Six
miles off the coast of Dominica Maaike and Peter get
to see a 20 metre long sperm whale weighing at least
40 tons. Every six minutes he blows a cloud of steam
at least 5 to 6 metres high in the air. It is a male.
The females don't get any bigger than about 12 metres
and a weight of about 13 tons. Andrew Armour, the manager
of the Anchorage Hotel, is happy. His hobby and trademark
is diving and whale watching and he had promised to
show the Duchies a whale. He beams contentedly. "I
told you so. When the winter arrives they are always
here. Whole groups of them, sometimes as many as fourteen
or fifteen together. It is obvious that the male is
preparing himself for a deep dive. They can go down
to a depth of 2000 metres and easily stay below for
an hour. It is unbelievable.... Look at his tail. See
how it moves?"
Suddenly
the magnificent body folds downward. The tail with its
characteristic markings that are different for every
whale slowly points skywards. Then without so much as
a splash he disappears into the depths. Together with
the divers Fitzroy Armour and doctor Harvey Bernard
who want to take some pictures. No they won't let us
come along. Not enough experience with sperm whales.
The sperm whale is a very sociable animal that enjoys
frolicking around the ocean in a group. The males play
with the children who are further looked after by the
barren older females. They rub their tails against each
other or simply roll them upside down. Using load clicking
and squeaking noises they tell each other stories and
make love to the females with the result that one and
a half years later a new calf is born. These youngsters
are breast fed for several years.
"Did you know that one third of the body of a sperm
whale is taken up by the head? And that they have the
largest brain of all animals on earth?"
No, we didn't know that.
"Did you know that solitary males cruise up and
down the Northern Atlantic Ocean? From Canada to Spain
and from the Azores and the Caribbean to Iceland."
We didn't know that either. And this biggest whale in
the world that has real teeth is totally safe if you
don't bother him or make him mad.
"Generally
speaking sperm whales keep their distance. Only a solitary
male can give you some trouble. Don't go too close."
He advises sailor's who suddenly find themselves in
the middle of a group of sperm whales as follows: Switch
on your engine, so they can hear that something is approaching
them. Never come close under sail. They experience creeping
up on them in a sneaky way as threatening. Just calmly
motor away from them. Do not make any unexpected changes
in course and don't suddenly rev up your engine or put
it in reverse. You can also stay in one place while
your engine is running. The whales will then just simply
swim past. If they approach you stay at the same speed
and continue on a parallel course while slowly turning
away from them. And if possible stay behind and never
come close too the young whales, don't hang around for
longer than thirty minutes and keep a distance of a
least fifty to one hundred metres. "If you notice
that the group is getting irritated leave immediately.
You will notice this soon enough as the whales will
start turning away from you, will dive without lifting
their tails in the air, will start to swim faster and
will stop m
aking their typical clicking sounds. A grown up whale
can easily sink a yacht."
Maaike and Peter
remembered his advise a few days later when they were
overhauled by an enormous male. They were doing about
11.6 knots and the whale passed them doing at least
twice that speed.
"As if out of nowhere he emerged from a wave close
behind us maybe only about 20 metres away." Maaike
says with awe still in her voice. "He passed us
like a bullet and just simply disappeared. There was
no time to be afraid. You are more surprised and awed
as this majestic streamlined animal that looks like
a submarine goes past. But we are also sure that if
it were to get angry and throw all it 40 tons against
our yacht we would be lucky to make it into our life-raft
alive."
Peter can second that emotion. "During one of my
earlier trips across the Pacific in a 20 ton steel fifty
footer I was rammed by a sperm whale r possibly it was
the other way around. Whatever, I am sure it was accidental.
The boat was travelling at 8 knots but was stopped in
its tracks and turned around a full 90 degrees."